A long history...
1590: The Royal Army crossed the ramparts of Troyes to take the city from the Ligueurs under the command of theDuke of Guise, Governor of Champagne. But the royal soldiers split up in the Saint-Denis area and tarried too long in the tripe houses in search of andouilles.
So the Ligueurs took the soldiers by surprise and threw them out of Troyes!
The Sun King, Louis XIV, dreamt of a campaign in Burgundy and stopped in the city to partake of Troyes’ cured meat specialities, already famous in the kingdom.
And in 1805 Napoleon I was “imperially” delighted!
The real Troyes Andouillette
Heritage of the traditions of Troyes cured pork specialists or “charcutiers”, the real Troyes Andouillette is hand made, prepared exclusively from the large intestine and stomach of the pig, specially selected and cut in strips along the length.
It is seasoned with fresh onions, salt, pepper and placed in its natural casing by hand. Then it is cooked slowly - for 5 hours!... in a well-flavoured stock.
The Troyes Andouillette can be eaten: on kebabs, in a sauce, barbecued or grilled, cooked “en papillote”, cold cut into slices for an aperitif snack, or, (quite delicious!) with a mustard, crème fraiche, white wine and shallot sauce.
The Gilbert LEMELLE company : http://www.atfrance.fr
Over a long time the Troyes Andouillette achieved its fame, helped by the Gilbert LEMELLE Co. who made this speciality and contributed to its increased recognition not only in France, but worldwide.
This family business built its reputation on the quality of the product and the respect of the profession and tradition of Troyes cured pork specialists or “charcutiers”.
Gilbert LEMELLE , himself a master-charcutier, founded the company in Troyes in 1976 where it employed 140 people. They all perpetuated the tradition of 3 generations of cured meats.
Some spectacular figures:
- 20 million andouillettes manufactured annually (=2,800 tonnes), or the offal of 15,000 pigs per day. Alongside the andouillette is the andouille, representing 250 tonnes each year.
- For several years the G.Lemelle company has developed new products maintaining the same respect for tradition: pigs’ trotters, and the hock (a production of 150 tonnes per annum).
The « A.A.A.A.A. » (= the 5 A’s)
The Association Amicale des Amateurs d’Andouillette Authentic (the Friendly Association of Authentic Andouillette Lovers), or AAAAA, includes among its members manufacturers, restaurateurs and gourmet critics such as Michel Piot, Jacques-Lois Delpal, Vincent Ferniot, all great lovers of this famous speciality.
The objective of the club is to work to maintain the prestige of the authentic andouillette and protect by all means the qualities of manufacture and presentation of this speciality.
In October 1994, the AAAAA was officially received in Troyes at the invitation of Gilbert Lemelle, who was presented with his official diploma on this occasion.
More information : www.aaaaa-asso.fr
Andouillettes with mustard sauce
- Brown the Troyes andouillettes over a high heat in a saucepan. Remove them. Thinly slice your onions or shallots, then brown them for two minutes, finally add the white wine and the mustard.
- Reduce this sauce by half and add the crème fraîche to achieve the desired thickness. Season to taste (salt, pepper, nutmeg). Reheat the andouillettes in the sauce.
- A good dry white wine, and a gratin Dauphinois will accompany this delicacy.
- Oil an earthenware or cast iron dish
- Place two Troyes andouillettes in it and add a few bay or thyme leaves. Leave to cook for 10 minutes at thermostat 6-7 (180°) then for a further 10 minutes at thermostat 10 (250°).
- Turn the andouillettes and serve with crispy chips and a little traditional mustard.